Terry Durack is Australia’s preeminent restaurant critic, currently shaping culinary discourse through his work for the Sydney Morning Herald and Substack newsletter. With over two decades of experience across London and Sydney, he specializes in:
Avoid pitches about chain restaurants or food delivery apps—Durack focuses on establishments pushing creative boundaries. His work has been honored by the World Food Media Awards and Glenfiddich Awards, reflecting his global impact on gastronomic journalism.
Terry Durack has carved a distinguished career as a restaurant critic and food writer, blending sharp analysis with evocative storytelling. His journey began in London, where he spent eight years as the restaurant critic for The Independent on Sunday, earning accolades like the Glenfiddich Restaurant Critic of the Year award. Since returning to Australia, he has served as the chief restaurant critic for the Sydney Morning Herald for over a decade, shaping culinary discourse across the Asia-Pacific region.
In this March 2025 Substack piece, Durack explores Sydney’s wave of veteran chefs launching new ventures, such as Neil Perry’s reinvention of fine dining at Eleven Bridge. He dissects how established figures balance legacy with innovation, emphasizing the role of localized ingredients like Davidson plum and saltbush. The article underscores Durack’s knack for contextualizing culinary trends within Australia’s cultural identity, making it essential reading for restaurateurs seeking press coverage.
This February 2025 analysis critiques the sustainability of "hyper-seasonal" menus dominating Sydney’s dining scene. Durack questions whether constant menu changes prioritize chef creativity over customer experience, citing burnout rates among kitchen staff. His balanced approach—applauding ingenuity while challenging industry norms—exemplifies his influence as a thought leader.
Durack’s 2010 farewell column for The Independent reflects on London’s culinary evolution, from the rise of gastropubs to molecular gastronomy. His retrospective analysis of reviewing ethics—including anonymous visits and payment transparency—remains a benchmark for food journalism.
Durack prioritizes chefs redefining regional Australian cuisine. Pitch stories about Indigenous ingredient integration or sustainable kitchen practices, as seen in his coverage of Orana’s native tasting menus. Avoid generic "new menu" announcements unless tied to broader cultural narratives.
He favors deep dives into industry shifts like the post-pandemic reservation economy. Provide access to restaurateurs discussing challenges like staffing shortages or supply chain adaptations, mirroring his SPINNING PLATES methodology.
Successful pitches connect Sydney’s dining scene to international movements. When covering a new fermentation lab, highlight how it responds to Southeast Asia’s koji boom while using Australian native yeasts.
“Criticism should be a dialogue, not a decree—a conversation between the critic, the chef, and the diner.”
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